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Retailers are quietly changing their return policies – here’s why you should be on the lookout this Black Friday

Retailers are quietly changing their return policies – here’s why you should be on the lookout this Black Friday

  • Many retailers have quietly tightened their return policies in recent years, reflecting the growing trend of online shopping and the resulting increase in returns.
  • The National Retail Federation estimates that returns cost US$890 billion each year, with a significant portion coming from returns fraud, such as “wardrobing” (buying and wearing items before returning them).
  • Online shopping has led to higher rates of returns, with the rate for online purchases being almost three times higher than for in-store purchases, according to an analysis by Capital One.
  • Retailers are now implementing various strategies to reduce returns, such as charging small flat fees for returns, shortening return windows, and attaching “do not remove” tags to prevent consumers from wearing items and returning them.
  • Before making a purchase, especially during Black Friday or Cyber Monday, it’s essential to familiarize yourself with the return policy and consider whether you truly want the item or are planning to return it later.

’Tis the season for giving – and that means ’tis the season for shopping. Maybe you’ll splurge on a Black Friday or Cyber Monday deal, thinking, “I’ll just return it if they don’t like it.” But before you click “buy,” it’s worth knowing that many retailers have quietly tightened their return policies in recent years.

As a marketing professor, I study how retailers manage the flood of returns that follow big shopping events like these, and what it reveals about the hidden costs of convenience. Returns might seem like a routine part of doing business, but they’re anything but trivial. According to the National Retail Federation, returns cost U.S. retailers almost US$890 billion each year.

Part of that staggering figure comes from returns fraud, which includes everything from consumers buying and wearing items once before returning them – a practice known as “wardrobing” – to more deceptive acts such as falsely claiming an item never arrived.

Returns also drain resources because they require reverse logistics: shipping, inspecting, restocking and often repackaging items. Many returned products can’t be resold at full price or must be liquidated, leading to lost revenue. Processing returns also adds labor and operational expenses that erode profit margins.

How e-commerce transformed returns

While retailers have offered return options for decades, their use has expanded dramatically in recent years, reflecting how much shopping habits have changed. Before the rise of e-commerce, shopping was a sensory experience: Consumers would touch fabrics, try on clothing and see colors in natural light before buying. If something didn’t work out, customers brought it back to the store, where an associate could quickly inspect and restock it.

Online shopping changed all that. While e-commerce offers convenience and variety, it removes key sensory cues. You can’t feel the material, test the fit or see the true color. The result is uncertainty, and with uncertainty comes higher rates of returns. One analysis by Capital One suggests that the rate for returns is almost three times higher for online purchases than for in-store purchases.

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit, the move toward online shopping went into overdrive. Even hesitant online shoppers had to adapt. To encourage purchases, many retailers introduced or expanded generous return policies. The strategy worked to boost sales, but it also created a culture of returning.

In 2020, returns accounted for 10.6% of total U.S. retail sales, nearly double the prior year, according to the National Retail Federation data. By 2021, that had climbed to 16.6%. Unable to try things on in stores, consumers began ordering multiple sizes or styles, keeping one and sending the rest back. The behavior was rational from a shopper’s perspective but devastatingly expensive for retailers.

The high cost of convenience

Most supply chains are designed to move in one direction: from production to consumption. Returns reverse that flow. When merchandise moves backward, it adds layers of cost and complexity.

In-store returns used to be simple: A customer would take an item back to the store, the retailer would inspect the product, and, if it was in good condition, it would go right back on the shelf. Online returns, however, are far more cumbersome. Products can spend weeks in transit and often can’t be resold – by the time they arrive, they may be out of season, obsolete or no longer in their original packaging.

Logistics costs compound the problem. During the pandemic, consumers grew accustomed to free shipping. That means retailers now often pay twice: once to deliver the item and again to retrieve it.

Now, in a post-pandemic world, retailers are trying to strike a balance – maintaining customer goodwill without sacrificing profitability. One solution is to raise prices, but especially today, with inflation in the headlines, shoppers are sensitive to price hikes. The other, more common approach is to tighten return policies.

In practice, that’s taken several forms. Some retailers have begun charging small flat fees for returns, even when a customer mails an item back at their own expense. For example, the direct-to-consumer retailer Curvy Sense offers customers unlimited returns and exchanges of an item for an initial $2.98 price. Others have shortened their return windows. Over the summer, for example, beauty retailers Sephora and Ulta reduced their return window from 60 days to 30.

Many brands now attach large, conspicuous “do not remove” tags to prevent consumers from wearing items and then sending them back. And increasingly, retailers are offering store credit rather than cash or credit card refunds, ensuring that returned sales at least stay within their company.

Few retailers advertise these changes prominently. Instead, they appear quietly in the fine print of return policies – policies that are now longer, more specific and far less forgiving than they once were.

As we head into the busiest shopping season of the year, it’s worth pausing before you click “purchase.” Ask yourself: Is this something I truly want – or am I planning to return it later?

Whenever possible, shop in person and return in person. And if you’re buying online, make sure you familiarize yourself with the return policy.

The Conversation

Lauren Beitelspacher does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.

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Q. Why should I be aware of changes in return policies this Black Friday?
A. Retailers have quietly tightened their return policies in recent years, which can result in higher costs for them and potentially affect your ability to return items.

Q. How much do returns cost U.S. retailers each year?
A. According to the National Retail Federation, returns cost U.S. retailers almost $890 billion each year.

Q. What is “wardrobing” and how does it contribute to the high cost of returns?
A. Wardrobing refers to consumers buying an item, wearing it once, and then returning it. This practice contributes to the high cost of returns by requiring reverse logistics, shipping, inspecting, restocking, and repackaging items.

Q. How has e-commerce transformed returns compared to in-store shopping?
A. Online shopping removes key sensory cues, such as feeling fabrics, testing fits, and seeing colors in natural light, which can lead to higher rates of returns.

Q. What was the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on online shopping and return policies?
A. The pandemic accelerated the shift to online shopping, leading retailers to introduce or expand generous return policies to boost sales, but also creating a culture of returning.

Q. How have returns changed in terms of frequency and amount since 2020?
A. Returns accounted for 10.6% of total U.S. retail sales in 2020, nearly double the prior year, and by 2021, that had climbed to 16.6%.

Q. What is the main challenge retailers face when dealing with returns?
A. Returns reverse the flow of supply chains, adding layers of cost and complexity.

Q. How do logistics costs contribute to the high cost of returns?
A. Logistics costs compound the problem by requiring retailers to pay twice: once to deliver an item and again to retrieve it.

Q. What are some common ways retailers are tightening their return policies?
A. Retailers are charging small flat fees for returns, shortening return windows, attaching “do not remove” tags, and offering store credit instead of cash or credit card refunds.

Q. Why should I shop in person and return items in person whenever possible?
A. Shopping in person allows you to try on items, see colors, and feel fabrics before buying, reducing the likelihood of returns, while also supporting retailers who may be tightening their return policies.